Thick Cotton Dress: Closures, Elastic and Even Gathers

A dress in thick 100% cotton is warm and long-wearing. Because the fabric does not stretch much, a few construction details matter. These notes show how to deal with closures and elastic.

Thick cotton dress

Closures for non-stretch fabric

On woven, non-stretchy fabrics you need a zipper or a placket so that the dress can pass over the head and shoulders. A knit would stretch, but a woven fabric will not.

Dress closure detail
Waist elastic

Elastic and shrinkage

The elastic in the waist shrinks by about 5% when ironed or washed, so give a corresponding allowance when you cut it.

Elastic being attached
Marking four equal points

When joining the gathered section to the flat one, mark four equal points on both pieces and pin them together, so the gathers are distributed evenly.

Joined sections
Finished dress

Do not use hard elastic. A soft elastic is more comfortable and does not leave marks on the skin.

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