Checked and plaid fabrics look great on a men’s shirt, but only if the pattern is matched carefully. When you look across the width and length of the finished shirt, the lines should flow as if it were cut from one single piece of fabric. These notes cover the key steps.

Match the pattern

Cut the pieces so that the stripes and squares line up across the front, at the pockets and where the sleeves meet the body. Start by cutting one front, then use it as a guide to cut the other, and take extra fabric to allow for matching.

Collar and fronts

Apply interfacing to one side of the collar so it keeps its shape.

Join the front pieces to the back, keeping the checks aligned along the seams.

Placket

Make the upper placket about 2 millimetres wider than the lower placket so that the seam underneath does not show from the outside. Let the extra 2 millimetres overlap where the button is not yet attached.

Hem

Finish the hem with a clean double fold so the raw edge is completely hidden.

Choosing fabric and styling

Flannel and soft cotton are the best choices for warmth and comfort. Red and black plaid is a classic, while navy and green give a more refined look. A well-fitting plaid shirt can be worn open over a plain T-shirt or buttoned up for a smarter casual style.