Corduroy is one of the best fabrics for autumn and winter clothing. It is warm, durable and forgiving of daily wear, which makes it ideal for children’s trousers, pinafores, hoodies and jackets. It also has a pile and a set of raised ridges (called wales) that can cause trouble if you treat it like a plain cotton. These tips will help you get clean seams and a professional finish.

Choose the right corduroy

Corduroy is sold in different wale widths. Fine “needlecord” is soft and drapes well, so it suits dresses, shirts and light jackets. Medium and wide wale cord is sturdier and better for trousers, skirts and coats. Check the fibre content too: 100% cotton cord is breathable and easy to press, while a small amount of elastane adds comfort for fitted garments.

Pre-wash before you cut

Cotton corduroy shrinks, sometimes by several percent in length. Wash and dry the fabric the same way you will wash the finished garment, otherwise your child’s trousers may end up too short after the first wash. Turn the fabric inside out to protect the pile and shake it out well before drying.

Cut all pieces in the same direction

Corduroy has a nap, which means it looks a slightly different shade depending on which way you view it. Brush your hand along the fabric: it feels smooth in one direction and rough in the other. Lay every pattern piece so that the nap runs the same way, usually with the pile running upward, which gives a deeper, richer colour. Mixing directions will make sleeves and body look like two different fabrics.

Use the right needle, thread and stitch length

• Needle: a size 80/12 or 90/14 universal or denim needle works for most corduroy. Replace it as soon as it feels dull.
• Thread: a good quality polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester thread in a colour slightly darker than the fabric disappears into the ridges.
• Stitch length: lengthen it to about 2.5 to 3 mm. Very short stitches can crush the pile and cause puckering.
• Presser foot: a walking foot keeps the layers feeding evenly and prevents the top layer from creeping.

Finish the seams

Corduroy frays and sheds fluff, so finish every raw edge. An overlocker is ideal, but a zigzag stitch or bound seams also work. For trousers and anything that will be washed often, flat-felled or double-stitched seams add strength where the garment is under stress.

Press without crushing the pile

Never press corduroy face down on a bare ironing board, because the ridges will flatten and shine. Instead, press from the wrong side over a thick towel or a scrap of corduroy placed pile-to-pile, using steam and light pressure. Lift the iron rather than sliding it. For stubborn seams, a clapper or a steam burst followed by gentle finger pressing works well.

Reduce bulk at corners and hems

Because cord is thick, trim seam allowances at corners, grade layers where several seams meet and consider a lighter cotton lining for waistbands, cuffs and pockets. Use a hammer or mallet gently on bulky intersections before sewing over them to flatten the pile.

With the right preparation, corduroy sews up beautifully and the finished garment can last through several children, or years of adult wear.